Aquarium gravel comes in many sizes, shapes, colors and materials.
Unless you are using a UGF (Underground Filter) or have a planted tank,
gravel is not essential and is primarily used for aesthetic purposes.
You will notice we do not use gravel in our tanks within the shop,and
many quarantine or hospital tanks do not use any substrate, making it
easier to clean the debris. Natural gravel, epoxy coated gravel and
tumbled glass are the materials primarily used for aquarium gravels.
Most of the natural gravels used in freshwater aquariums are quartz or
granite.
Avoid coral, sea shells, dolomite and limestone based materials.
These will release carbonates in the tank raising its pH buffering
capacity. A simple test to determine if your gravel is inert and will
not affect the pH is to drip an acid such as vinegar on the gravel. If
it foams or bubbles it is not inert and will leach carbonates and
affect the pH.
All gravel should be washed thoroughly prior to use. Epoxy or
plastic coated gravel should never be boiled, as this will loosen the
coating.
Usually the darker gravels will show the fish colors best. The lighter gravels tend to give a washed out color to the fish.
If you are using a UGF filter then you will want 5 to 8 cm of gravel on
top of the filter plates. The nitrifying bacteria adheres to the
gravel providing the biological filtration. 8 to 12 cm can be used for
planted tanks. This will provide support for plant roots and depth for
planting.
Terracing the gravel by having it deeper in the back and slowly
lowering to the front will provide depth for the aquarium and help in
cleaning as the debris will tend to collect in the front, making it
easier to remove with a gravel vacuum. Over time the gravel will tend
to even out. To prevent this terracing with rocks or slate will help
keep the gravel in place.